The best Grand Seiko watches to date, and why they matter





It’s fair to say that Grand Seiko is a watch brand for watch lovers, but as the brand has grown and expanded internationally over the years, more and more people are beginning to discover what makes this Japanese brand unique (pun totally intended). From colorful and textured dial finishes to Zaratsu polishing to unique movements like the famous Spring Drive movement, their lineup is quite extensive. Because of this, it’s hard for me to know what to do next… so, despite the risk of offending many loyal fans, I’ve compiled what we think are the 14 best Grand Seiko watches of the modern era, in no particular order.

Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake”
Let’s start with the watch that made Grand Seiko famous internationally. Beloved by watch collectors around the world, the SBGA211 “Snowflake” watch gets its name because of its exquisite dial decoration that looks like fresh snow. Plus, it’s equipped with a smooth and flowing Spring Drive movement, which combines the “soul” of a mechanical watch with the precision of a quartz watch, and it keeps incredibly accurate time.

Significant: It’s no coincidence that the SBGA211 “Snowflake” is the epitome of Spring Drive watches, a watch that is so sought after and has become a veritable modern icon. Its beautiful, nature-inspired dial combined with a Spring Drive movement has made Grand Seiko’s uniqueness known to even more watch lovers. It embodies what makes Grand Seiko special and makes watch lovers feel extra special. Its high-strength titanium case is also a typical Grand Seiko feature, with a combination of brushed and Zaratsu polishing.

Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch”
As Grand Seiko’s most recognisable model, the SLGH005 “White Birch” is just as iconic as the Snowflake. Winner of the GPHG Men’s Watch Award 2021 and the Red Dot Design Award “Best of the Best” in 2022, this watch features a dial that evokes the white birch forest that surrounds the Grand Seiko Shizukuishi workshop, where all 9S mechanical Grand Seiko watches are manufactured and assembled.

Why it matters: The White Birch is not only one of the most acclaimed watches in Grand Seiko history, it’s one of the most acclaimed watches in Japan. It masterfully displays one of Grand Seiko’s hallmarks: the extremely detailed dial texture. It also features the first steel production model to be equipped with the 9SA5 movement – ​​the pinnacle of 9S movement design, with its groundbreaking Double Impulse escapement and 80-hour power reserve.

Grand Seiko SLGT003 “Kodo” Constant Force Tourbillon
Named after the Japanese word for “heartbeat”, the SLGT003 “Kodo” Constant Force Tourbillon is the most visually stunning (and technically sophisticated) watch in the Grand Seiko collection, taking nearly a decade to develop. It’s the first watch in history to combine a tourbillon and constant force mechanism on the same axis, making it breathtaking with its skeletonized construction and the sound quality of the constant force cage’s rotation.

Significant: In short, this is Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication watch, and its first Grand Complication watch, which is quite significant. Its in-house developed 9ST1 movement, an evolution of the impressive T0 concept movement, sets a new standard of precision for the uncompromising brand and is a world first in horology. It is also the first watch to come out of Grand Seiko’s new Atelier Ginza, Grand Seiko’s smallest production facility dedicated almost entirely to mechanical complications – laying the foundation for Grand Seiko’s ongoing legacy of Grand Complication masterpieces.

Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph
It wasn’t until 2007 that Grand Seiko first introduced a chronograph into its collection, and it would be another 16 years before they launched their first mechanical chronograph – but the wait was worth it. The SLGC001 Tentagraph takes its name from its 9SC5 movement, which beats 10 times per second, has a three-day power reserve, and is an automatic chronograph. What’s really impressive about this power reserve watch is that it includes a chronograph that keeps running…if you like to leave your chronograph running all day, this is the watch for you.

Why it matters: Grand Seiko is known for its slightly restrained and conservative aesthetic, but the Tentagraph shows how well they can create traditionally elegant sports watches. It perfectly embodies Grand Seiko’s current Evolution 9 design language, with an angular shape that blends ergonomics with plenty of style.